New Rock-Hewn Churches of Ethiopia

Co-ordinates: 9 43’ 41’’ N 39 33’ 57’’ E

Location

North of Debre Berhan on the east slope of a deep, narrow valley covered in thick vegetation and eucalyptus. The cliff face opposite is an unusual geological formation comprised of vertical strips.

Site Description

(by Tarn Philipp)

The site includes four recently carved churches on the east slope of a deep valley. All four churches are in close proximity to one another and reached by built steps which descend from the built church of Mika’el above. Alongside the churches are several hermit cells and Sabaye where people retreat to live and pray in seclusion for several days. The site also includes a built school and several dwellings and has become a popular place of pilgrimage.

The first church to be carved was Zab Herab which is to the far south and the lowest on the slope. A carved cell to the north of the church has a water source, considered holy by the priests. A second hermit-like cell lies immediately to the south. The church itself lacks any true form and is more or less circular in plan with a central maqdas extending to the east with a cell on either side. The west wall of the church curves to join the north and south walls in a crescent shape. The central maqdas contains a rock-hewn manbara tabot consecrated to Zab herab and is separated from the qeddest by a partially built wall and metal door, concealed by a hung cloth. Curtain divides distinguish the north and south cells from the church and form areas for priests and women respectively. There is no step to the maqdas, but the lateral chambers are raised to the east. The church does not include any wall paintings. However, the west wall is engraved with two processional crosses and an inscription stating the name and completion date of the church.

The second church to be carved is that of Maryam which lies to the north and slightly higher than the Zab Herab. The church of Maryam also includes a single entrance and the plan is almost identical to the first church although larger in scale. To the north of Maryam is the church of Selassie which was the third to be carved. Selassie includes two entrances carved into the south west rock face. That to the left is for men and that to the right for women. Unlike the earlier two churches the inner walls are straight to form a church roughly square in plan. The church has a tabot to Selassie in the central maqdas with lateral chambers similar to those in the other two churches. Steps to the right of the façade lead to the baptistery concealed behind a closed door.

The fourth and final church to be carved is that of Gabriel. It is located still further north and higher up the slope than the other churches. The church of Gabriel also includes two entrances, that to the left for men and that to the right for women. It is carved in the west face.

To the right of the women’s entrance is an entrance to the Subaya which is roughly square in plan. To the left of the men’s entrance, further along and raised on a ledge, are two more entrances. That to the far left is the burial place of the chief craftsman, and where he lived and prayed. A chamber to the east includes a rock-hewn lectern from where he prayed and studied the bible. The other entrance joins a long tunnel which connects to the north of the church of Gabriel. The passage is referred to as Hell and entering it from the church, in utter darkness, is symbolic of going to hell. A similar carved passage is found at the new rock church of Itissa.

The church of Gabriel is far more sophisticated and larger than its three predecessors. The surfaces are well refined and the church includes several freestanding columns. A curtain divide in the west part of the church divides the area to the south, which is for women.

Transport/ getting there:

Take the road north of Debre Berhan towards Dessie. The turnoff is on the left some 10 minutes drive from town. Continue down this dirt track which also leads to Gologotha. Five minutes down this track, at the sign to Gologotha, turn right. This leads to a small cluster of buildings. The road was currently covered in rocks forcing us to continue by foot. A 20/30 minute walk along the descending road finally rises to the built church of Mika’el which sits above a hill. The four recent rock churches are located on the east of this hill and reached by descending steps which begin halfway up the hill to Mika’el.