Co-ordinates: 13° 52’ 12’’ N, 39° 34’ 3’’ E

 

Location:

The church is superbly located on a high ridge in the Gheralta Range between Maryam Korkor and Maryam Megdalawit. There is a sheer drop to the north and west with breathtaking views towards Abuna Yemata Guh. The church is approached from the east through a rock hewn trench that runs the length of the church. The beta lehem lies to the west of the church in a small courtyard.

 

Church Description:
(by Tarn Phillip)

Arbatu Ensesa Kemer is entered from the north but orientated so that the maqdas lies to the east. Two cruciform columns distinguish the two aisles that form this small church. The central columns boast unusual capitals from which arches are sprung in every direction and supported by pilasters on all four walls. Some of the arches are so slight they might be described as flat beams. The church is three bays in depth if one includes the maqdas.

The only entrance is from the north, where two steps descend into the west bay. A second entrance, now walled-up, is found on the west wall and originally gave access to the south aisle. Two roughly formed openings are found on the upper north wall. One is to the central bay and the other to the maqdas. The upper wall of the south aisle includes two carved ‘chambers’ in the central and west bay. These are both walled up but perhaps indicate an attempted south aisle, which on misjudging the depth of the rock, was abandoned to result in the two aisled church.

Two built walls have been introduced to separate the maqdas from the church. The two narrow entrances to the maqdas are on either side of the central column. The entrances do not include doors and are simply hung with cloth. The maqdas is not raised and includes a tabot to the four evangelists, housed in a timber manbara tabot, which is painted bright red, yellow and green. A square-in-diamond with a central cross is carved in the ceiling of the south east bay. All other ceiling bays are decorated with small squares which protrude or recess to form textile-like patterns that evoke the cross.

Getting There:

While there is said to be a path from Maryam Korkor, the route I took was from the signposted footpath for Maryam Megdalawit. The path passes Maryam Megdalawit and is a steep forty-five minute ascent from the bottom to the top of the mountain. A further hour and a half along the top of the mountain, rising gradually for the last twenty minutes, brings one to the church.

 

Images
(Please click to enlarge)