New Rock-Hewn Churches of Ethiopia

Coordinates: 14°11'30"N 39°37'40.5"E

Location:

Arbatu Ensesa Be’era is located at the foot of a small mountain in a fertile valley between Edaga Hamus and Gundo Gundo. An old church by the same name is found above, midway up the slope. The old church is nestled against a natural enclave and is part built, part hewn from the rock. A square church dedicated to Medhane Alem is built in the valley below. The old church and Medhane Alem are both painted turquoise and visible on approach from across the valley.

Church Description:

(by Tarn Philipp)

The site consists of two newly carved chambers. The first is carved into the south rock face while the second chamber lies to the right and is carved into the south east face. The southerly chamber was carved from 2002 (Gregorian calendar i.e. 1995 Ethiopian Calendar) and is raised slightly above the ground. The entrance is rectangular but the surfaces are otherwise unrefined. The second chamber resembles a tunnel and was begun in 2008 (Gregorian calendar i.e. 2001 Ethiopian Calendar). The presence of slag within the tunnel indicates ongoing excavation although work is extremely slow in comparison to other sites. A water source which springs from within the rock has made for damp working conditions within the tunnel.

The nascent stage of excavation means the site presently lacks any true form or architectural details. A return visit is required to establish whether work is progressing or whether the project has been abandoned altogether. While the latter seems likely, the simple joining together of the two chambers would do much to encourage the formation of a church. Perhaps most interesting is the motivation behind the new ‘church’ at Be’era. Local myth asserts that during the time of Mohammed (7th century) God covered a church within this mountain to protect it. The craftsman, Abraham Tsegaye firmly believes that by tunneling into the rock, he is ‘searching for’ and will reveal the ancient hidden church.

Getting There:

Arbatu Ensesa Be’era is on the Gundo Gundo road which runs east from Edaga Hamus. The un-signposted footpath starts a ten minute drive passed the town of Koma Subeha, where the priest also lives.